“The color blue actually suited Pierce,” recollects Oscar-winning dress dressmaker Lindy Hemming. “I used to be dressing him in a variety of blue shirts and the blue bezel and dial of the Omega Seamaster matched completely. Plus, blue suited Commander Bond’s naval background.”
As a transfer from the Rolex Submariner – James Bond’s default selection since Dr No bar a couple of doubtful meanderings into virtual Seikos within the seventies – Hemming’s selection of the Omega Seamaster 300 was once ultimate in each and every method. “Gorgeous,” even, in line with Vesper Lynd all the way through the dining-car scene in On line casino Royale, by means of comparability to the watch she blithely assumes zero07’s sort would put on (Rolex, clearly).
It’s now not simply the blue despite the fact that, Lindy. As ultimate as Omega’s professional-spec diving watch suited Mr Brosnan’s twinkling eyes and deck uniform when she first dressed him for Goldeneye all of the long ago in 1995, the Seamaster actually is the default selection for Britain’s best seamen, albeit the ones whose operational bonuses can have enough money it. For everybody else, right here’s the whole thing you want to understand concerning the Seamaster 300, from its heritage to essentially the most wanted fashions these days.
Omega’s Army Pedigree
Lately, the Royal Military’s Particular Boat Carrier – notoriously more difficult than their landlubber SAS contemporaries are nearly completely kitted out with specifically engraved, proudly war-torn Seamaster 300 Pros. However the Swiss model’s provider roots lengthen again a lot additional. Rugged, legible, extremely water resistant, chronometer-level precision Omega timepieces have been kitted-out to British servicemen and pilots nearly completely all the way through International Warfare II. See the wrist of Tom Hardy’s Spitfire pilot in Dunkirk for additional cinematic evidence of that individual pedigree.
Warfare, finally, speeds up technological innovation, as this yr’s 70th-anniversary Seamaster reissues remind us. Between 1940 and 1945, Omega delivered greater than 110,00zero timepieces to the British Ministry of Defence. After the battle, as we ceaselessly improved throughout the jet age towards the nuclear age and in the end the distance race, this breathless length of innovation discovered Omega on the top of its engineering creativity.
It spoke back to the call for for a timepiece with the similar powerful generation and dependable conception as its army efforts, however extra aesthetically suited for a extra instructional life. To not point out the burgeoning craze for SCUBA diving, heightened by means of the garlanded cinematic exploits of Jacques Cousteau.
Introduced in 1948, the Seamaster line was once Omega’s first reliable ‘circle of relatives’ of watches. Modelled at the ‘Watch. Wrist. Water-proof.’ military-spec items made for the MoD, those extra classically designed timepieces boasted higher water-resistance than their army opposite numbers because of the radical use of O-ring gasket generation. In the past, water resistant watches depended on lead or shellac gaskets, that have been simply suffering from a temperature trade – one thing, that has a tendency to occur whilst you dive deeper and deeper.
Omega grew to become to the hatches on submarines used all the way through the battle for inspiration and got here up with a resilient rubber seal within the Seamaster’s ultimate case design. This remained intact at depths of as much as 60 meters and temperature levels between –40 levels and 50 levels Celsius. In brief, it labored.
The Seamaster’s Technological Inventions
That every one stated, with due recognize to Bond’s authentic selection of wristwear, the Rolex Submariner was once fast to blow Omega utterly out of the water once 1953. The immortal, mythical and quite-simply peerless diving watch had the entire bundle from the outset: screw-down crown, unidirectional rotating dive-time bezel, 300-metre water resistance… Bar the fashionable Tudor Pelagos and the Sub’s early rival, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, there was once and can be little contest. Positive sufficient, the souped-up Rolex ‘Mil-Sub’ were given in early as first selection for the British Military’s crack frogmen all the way through the fifties and seventies.
Through 1957, alternatively, Omega were given again within the recreation with now not one however 3 new ‘Grasp’ watches, are compatible for land, sea and air. Along the Speedmaster (the one watch that’s been at the Moon) and the Railmaster was once an past due, absolutely achieved thinking-man’s choice to the Sub’: the Seamaster 300, whole with all of the above and still-standard diving-watch requisites. A broad-arrow hours hand was once smartly counterbalanced by means of its luminous arrow-shaped hour indexes. The next yr, impressed by means of the ancient markings on gondolas in Venice, the Seahorse was the emblem of the Seamaster, engraved on its caseback and nonetheless featured these days on a collection of ‘Skilled’ fashions.
The Omega Seamaster 300 Lately
It’s now been 25 years because the blue-bezelled iteration everyone knows absolute best was once introduced – the person who Lindy Hemming matched so completely to Brosnan’s ultimate nineties Bond. Since 1993, the Seamaster Skilled Diver 300M has turn into such a lot of an embedded, trendy vintage that one specific instance is to be observed completely peeping from the wrist of a undeniable Duke of Cambridge every so often. Wills even wore it to his brother’s marriage ceremony – which is arguably a little bit of a sartorial no-no, however who’re we to argue with His Royal Highness? Let’s now not overlook his personal naval enjoy, finally.
Beloved for its vibrant design and oceangoing generation, the unique 300M Skilled signalled Omega’s triumphant go back to the sector of diving watches after a dry-docked eighties and singlehandedly ignited the continued partnership with Her Majesty’s Secret Carrier. In fact, there were many permutations at the Seamaster through the years, with the Aqua Terra and Planet Ocean levels being specific highlights – the latter of which turns issues up 300 extra notches, to 600 metres’ water resistance – however the Skilled stays the flagship.
The Latest Seamaster 300M Skilled
For 2018 Omega celebrates 25 years since its trendy reboot, introducing a daring new Skilled Diver 300M assortment with a complete facelift numbering 14 other fashions, together with six in stainless-steel and 8 in a mix of stainless-steel and gold (the bi-metal watch development is again, when you hadn’t spotted, eighties fanatics).
Now sized up from 41mm to a relatively extra recent 42 mm, holding the skeletonised palms and wavy dial trend so fashionable within the 1993 authentic, the actual Bond-worthy gadgetry is whirring away within. And it’s all all the way down to innovation that’ll give protection to the sophisticated mechanics from one of these ultra-magnetism knocking about your reasonable Bond villain’s lair.
The in-house-manufactured Grasp Chronometer Calibre 8800 motion in an instant speeds up issues into extraordinary geographical regions of precision, efficiency and magnetic resistance. Seamaster devotees will know that the variability has been host to a number of actions through the years, together with the ETA-based Omega Caliber 1120 and, maximum lately, the 2500, which is largely according to the similar authentic motion despite the fact that significantly changed by means of Omega to incorporate its lubricant-free Co-Axial escapement.
With the brand new Seamaster 300M using the Grasp Chronometer 8800, Omega is continuous its brand-wide programme phasing-out older actions in favour of its extra state-of-the-art in-house hardware, repositioning itself as a real, lightly provided rival to Rolex, because it as soon as was once again within the day.
So what’s so state-of-the-art concerning the 8800? Smartly, with the common-or-garden mechanical watch, magnetic fields are nonetheless Public Enemy No. 1 to the ferrous parts ticking within, sticking them in combination or sending them out of whack. In line with global traditional ISO 764, watches should withstand exposition to an instantaneous present magnetic box of four,800 Amperes consistent with metre – concerning the power of the magnet on your refrigerator door.
The identical to four,800 A/m is ready 60 Gauss, which makes Omega’s ticking cocktail of artful alloys and silicon extremely overqualified: its new certification by means of the Swiss metrology institute, METAS calls for a resistance up from 60 to 15,00zero (sure, 15,00zero) Gauss – sufficient to withstand the affect of a neodymium magnet, the most powerful everlasting magnet commercially to be had, discovered in all places from demanding disks to MRI scanners. And laser-beam torture gadgets, probably.
Dive in, chaps. The Seamaster hasn’t ever felt finer.
Lately’s Best possible Omega Seamaster 300 Fashions
Type Quantity: 220.127.116.11.03.001
As masculine as you’d be expecting from James Bond’s watch of selection, this does what few diving watches can organize in that it purposes as a right kind high-spec software watch, whilst additionally being (simply) good sufficient for extra dressed-up events. (Although now not with the tuxedo. Truly, zero07.)
Purchase Now: £2,920.00
Type Quantity: 18.104.22.168.01.001
Introduced in 2017, this 60th anniversary piece will pay very respectful tribute to a fifties style, however below the outside is all of the technical diving tech that Omega has honed within the a long time since. An authorized chronometer with a screw-in crown, that is shape and serve as in near-perfect team spirit.
Purchase Now: £four,400.00
Type Quantity: 22.214.171.124.03.001
This model, on a leather-based strap, is some other vintage-looking Seamaster, the sand-blasted blue dial deep sufficient to wish to dive proper in. As with the opposite fashions within the circle of relatives, it has a ceramic rotating bezel to lend a hand observe your time underwater.
Purchase Now: £five,520.00
Type Quantity: 126.96.36.199.01.001
Bimetal watches are one thing of a Marmite taste however they’re without a doubt trending. Right here, the good-looking rose gold brings the sober stainless-steel to existence, whilst below all of the glitz and glamour sits the similar hard-working motion as you’ll in finding around the Seamaster vary.
Purchase Now: £6,300.00
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